Tis Returns to Italy! Day 46: Fine Dining in Livorno

Published by Lisa Tisdale on

Best Meal In Livorno, Italy
The Best Meal You Will Get In Livorno, Italy!

Lisa of Tis Travels is on a three-month journey through Italy, exploring, eating, and living like an Italian. Follow along on “Tis Travels” on Facebook and Instagram!

After my successful day trip to Montecatini, I decided to take the day trip to Livorno that was top of my list. I headed to the train station, bought a ticket, and took a seat on the train for Livorno.

As I emerged from Central Station in Livorno, I noticed the many buses that would take me to the exciting areas of Livorno that attract tourists. All of these were places I wanted to see. Eventually.  

When I first arrive in a new place, I like to walk from the train station, typically not the best of neighborhoods, and watch the city change. I always feel like that is the best way to politely let a city introduce itself to you.  

Getting to Know Livorno

Livorno is supposed to have a lively waterfront area, supported by a beautiful checkered pathway.  So I headed in the direction of the sea. As I walked from the train station toward the water, I watched the scenery around me. It did not change much. I kept waiting to stumble upon the fancy waterfront with the checkered tile walkway. That was not happening. 

As I was up against siesta time, I decided to find somewhere to eat lunch before everything closed. I walked across a square, saluting the statue that was rising high above the rather drab neighborhood. A few bodega bars had some older men seated outside, doing some day drinking. 

Giving into hunger, I finally found a place that was open and had seafood pasta called Osteria Red. There was nothing at all fancy about this place but this seemed the best of the area. As it was a bit chilly, I showed my vaccination card and passport and took a table inside. The waitress seated me at the only table upfront in a rather large room. 

This was the very best part of my day. 

Fine Dining in Livorno 

As I sat at the only table in a large, empty space up front, I wondered why it was not busier. I kept expecting more people to come but they never did.

The waitress was very attentive to my needs, checking on me regularly. Next, a man appeared in faded blue jeans and a tattered t-shirt, who I assumed was the owner. He offered me multiple cables that were already set up in the outlets, in which to charge my iPhone and/or Android devices. He kept coming by to make sure the food was good and I had everything I needed.

I sat there and thought. In all of the fancy places I visited in the Upper Town of Montecatini yesterday, no one ever was this kind to me. My wine was superb, my seafood was fresh and the hospitality was possibly the best I’ve ever experienced.

Was the place fancy?  Heck no.  But give me a fancy place and this one and I’d choose this one every single time.  

Reluctantly, after I finished my meal and my wine, I left my safe, happy space in Livorno. I found the Disneyfied version of Livorno, looked around, and quickly bought a ticket for the bus back to the train station.  

Ciao for now!


Lisa Tisdale

Lisa Tisdale has traveled all over the world, writing about her experiences and making local contacts. She recently completed a three-month trip through Italy, exploring her favorite country’s food, wine, and sites, and making new friends!

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